As the world‘s cheese industry arrives in Paris for the Salon du Fromage, the dairy industry’s premier trade show, decisions made by the French government last week mean that the best Camembert should now be considered an endangered species.The compromises made at the 21 February meeting of the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), the French government agency that administers appellations for food and drink, have brought nearly 20 years of conflict over Camembert cheese to an end [ . . . ]
A truce has been reached to bring an end to the Camembert wars that have plagued one of France’s most pungent cheese for a decade, but some say the quality of the famous fromage will never be as good [ . . . ]
Mother Noëlla Marcellino is a scientist, a world-famous cheese maker and a Fulbright Scholar who also happens to be a cloistered Benedictine nun.
For her expertise and knowledge, she has been featured on “CBS Sunday Morning,” has had her journey unveiled on the PBS documentary “The Cheese Nun,” has championed sustainability on the Netflix series “Cooked” with foodie Michael Pollan and has been written about in The New Yorker.
None of this would have happened, she insists in a telephone interview from the Abbey of Regina Laudis in Bethlehem, without guidance by the hand of God from her early years of making cheese for her community of nuns in fulfillment of her vow of obedience. Divine providence also was present, she says, while she studied the biodiversity of cheese-ripening fungi for three years in France as a Fulbright Scholar, then as she became a regarded advocate of preserving the tradition and biodiversity of cheese.God still guides her now, she says, as she serves her community away from the cheese, as webmaster for the abbey. [ . . . ] Read More
France’s fraud squad has been dragged into a bitter battle over what constitutes “real Camembert” in what traditionalists hope is the final chapter in a 25-year “war” with cheese multinationals to preserve their age-old method.
The vast majority of cheese is mass-produced from milk pooled from mega-dairies. There is just one British producer of traditional farmhouse lancashire and a handful producing cheddar. Can the real deal make a comeback?
Grated. Soft. Cottage. Cheddar. The supermarket dairy aisle just isn’t representative of the whopping 700 varieties of cheese produced in Britain today. But Sharpham Cheese by the River Dart in south Devon is a world away from mass production. Here, a range of 14 “real” cheeses are handmade on a small scale from the milk of goats, Jersey cows and sheep.
“You can taste the richness of each milk,” says managing director Mark Sharman as he cuts into the original Sharpham, first produced in 1981. “This soft, creamy cheese finishes with a lactic acid tang and a chicory-like bitterness.” Then there’s the dense, slightly crumbly, “almost lemony fresh” Ticklemore goat’s cheese; the indulgent triple-cream Elmhirst that smells of fresh grassy pastures; and the award-winning Cremet, goat’s cheese with added cow’s milk cream – divine [ . . . ] More: Raw power! Why we need a campaign for real cheese
In some circles, Roland Barthélemy is known as The Pope of Cheese. Owner of the highly acclaimed acclaimed Fromagerie Barthélemy in the heart of Paris, he has a leadership role in La Guilde Internationale des Fromagers and helped bring the cheese trade into the Concours de Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (France’s prestigious professional competition). He’s also a cheese diplomat—his title, specifically, being Ambassador of the French Patrimony of Cheese [ . . . ]
It’s the color of dark rum, a huge sweet presence on the front palate but the finish is transformed into an infinitely lingering, burnt toast zestiness. It has an alcohol content of 18%, so it’s certainly not a regular wine, and a residual sugar of 139 g/L. Standard wine will be less than 5, so there’s something pretty unusual [ . . . ]