The Beats at Le Pompidou

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Kerouac: “Everything belongs to me because I’m poor”

I went to really great exhibition on Jack Kerouac and the Beat Generation at Paris’ Pompidou Musee a few days ago. I was pretty nuts about The Beats when I was in my twenties, reading Kerouac’s “On The Road,”Ann Charter’s great biography on Kerouac, Dennis McNally’s excellent “Desolate Angel,” Burroughs, Ginsberg, Snyder, McClure – all of it.

I hadn’t visited these old friends for quite some time, so this experience really took me to a place I’d nearly forgotten, but such an important influence on who I’ve become.

“Everything belongs to me because I’m poor,” read the projected type on the first wall of the exhibit. Was that a quote from Kerouac or St. Francis?

The music playing from different sources along the exhibit was appropriately Bop (Dexter Gorden, Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie.) Kerouac was crazy about jazz and hated the stereotyped media portrayal of the bearded beatnik with “folk” guitar and bongos strapped to their backs.

Here’s a video from jazz singer Mark Murphy singing “Parker’s Mood” that includes a piece from Kerouac’s “On The Road” about the first time he heard Charlie Parker play. Fantastic!

Kerouac was very proud of his French Canadian Catholic heritage, and would still speak French when in the presence of his Memere, well after he became the famed, often vilified author. The exhibition had a really cool film of Jack interviewed for French television, with Jack proudly performing his talents as train conductor with a brakeman’s lantern.


<p><a href=”https://vimeo.com/15730877″>Jack Kerouac and the lantern</a> from <a href=”https://vimeo.com/questavita”>questavita</a&gt; on <a href=”https://vimeo.com”>Vimeo</a&gt;.</p>

There was a display the the teletype paper upon which Kerouac typed the entire manuscript of “On The Road”; wall projections of the cult film “Pull My Daisy” narrated by Jack; clips from Dylan’s film “Renaldo and Clara;” another film clip with Dylan and Ginsberg at a grave site in France (Baudelaire or Rimbaud?) Dylan says, “I want to be buried in an unmarked grave.” “No you don’t,” I thought.

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Pompidou Rooftop

I loved the entire Beat Generation exhibit – absolutely awesome. There was also a second exhibit on Paul Klee, as well as sections dedicated to Picasso, Marc Chagal, and others. I’ll be sure to post pictures of these later.


“So in America when the sun goes down and I sit on the old broken-down river pier watching the long, long skies over New Jersey and sense all that raw land that rolls in one unbelievable huge bulge over to the West Coast, and all that road going, and all the people dreaming in the immensity of it, and in Iowa I know by now the children must be crying in the land where they let the children cry, and tonight the stars’ll be out, and don’t you know that God is Pooh Bear? the evening star must be drooping and shedding her sparkler dims on the prairie, which is just before the coming of complete night that blesses the earth, darkens all the rivers, cups the peaks and folds the final shore in, and nobody, nobody knows what’s going to happen to anybody besides the forlorn rags of growing old, I think of Dean Moriarty, I even think of Old Dean Moriarty the father we never found, I think of Dean Moriarty” – Kerouac/On the Road

Philharmonique de Marseille avec le James Brown de Musique Classique

Last night we saw the Philharmonique De Marseille perform a concert of Bernstein/Gershwin in an outdoor venue that would rival anything you might see on “Game of Thrones,” and featuring a conductor that is the “James Brown de Musique Classique!” It was one of the best concert experiences I’ve ever had. And the gorgeous terra cotta half moon shining above was God’s opening act and encore. This video shows the hardest working maestro in show business doing his thing, leading the Philharminic de Marseille.

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Paris Jazz Festival at Parc Floral

What a great time we had at beautiful Park Floral in Paris, attending this weekend’s installment of the ongoing summer Paris Jazz Festival. Linda and I sat in amazement listening to Renaud Garcia-Fons on 5 string bass and David Peña Dorantes on piano.

The collaborative “Mar y Rayo” was performed beautifully to close the evening. Below hear the song on YouTube and a portion of the excitement captured by my iPhone.

Parc Floral, Paris
Parc Floral, Paris

Paris Parc Floral was nearly as wonderful an experience as the music. The park is part of the Bois de Vincennes. There’s beautiful walking paths, gardens, and of course the shaded outdoor concert stage, the Delta, which faces a lake. I may well have been sitting in the same grounds where Napolean Bonaparte trained his soldiers. I hope I was sitting in the same spot where someone deserted!

Saint Merry rocks it out baby bubbah to the boogie da bang bang the boogie to the boogie da beat … with Mendelssohn!

By Michael Stevenson, aka Dai Bando

“Serendipity” means “finding something other than what we were looking for.” That’s what happens much of the time when we travel, and serendipity struck again when we found St. Merry’s Chapel the other night.

I had actually read about St. Merry’s Chapel months ago, and intended to pay a visit when we got to Paris in July. St. Merry was a Catholic monk who became the patron saint of Paris’ Right Bank in the year 884. Saint Merry church, built in 1500, is now known as “petit Notre Dame” for the building’s marvelous architecture.

After a great afternoon at The Pompidou Musee, experiencing a fantastic exhibition on Jack Kerouac and The Beat Generation (more about that later) Linda and I sat in a nearby cafe to eat and drink some wine, and to figuratively and literally recharge. That’s when I spotted nearby Saint Merry.

Once there, I felt a connection to this place in ways I did not feel at Notre Dame. The chapel is beautiful and the church’s mission is, as well. There’s a great spirit here, and that spirit does not have white hair, dentures, and vote Republican.

St. Merry focuses on helping to promote local young artists, in their words – “promoting the word of God in the language of our time.” They have hip hop and grafitti artists perform at the church, as well as classical musicians. (Read specifics on their Arts program here )

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After finding St. Merry, we quickly hustled into the building and asked a woman when the next concert would be? “Maintenant!” she whispered and pointed towards the assembling group of musician near that church altar. And then the music started, with organ, cello, and beautiful French voices performing Minteverdi, Purcell, and Mendelssohn. No Sugar Hill Gang, but maybe next time.

It was really beautiful, as serendipity often is.

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Brasserie Le Bouquet du Nord

Last night we ended at “Bouquet du Nord” in the mostly Black neighborhood Saint-Raoul. Violinist Stéphane Grappelli lived opposite this cafe and used to come in for a drink and jam with the tziganes.

These guys were terrific here kicking ass on “Sweet Georgia Brown” (I couldn’t resit exclaiming “take me home Daddy!” after the guitar solo at 1:20)

We had a lovely time at Le Bouquet du Nord. Hope to visit again for gypsy jazz.