The French fort at Saint Malo saw post-punk’s Shame play a blistering set on the second stage at La Route du Rock Festival last night (17 August).
Largely taking place across two stages at Le Fort de Saint-Père fort in Saint-Malo, La Route du Rock also features a beach stage by the walled city seafront, and an opening party at the festival’s year-round live venue La Nouvelle Vague.The festival almost completely eliminates choice, giving the crowd a non-stop 6pm-4am programme that alternates one act at a time between the main and second stage. It’s a confident, and completely justified, statement about the organisers’ taste – and it’s worked for more than 25 years.So entering the stage to the fairground blasts of The Vengaboys’ ‘We Like to Party’ was about the most rebellious thing Shame could have done, bringing the remnants of a tasteless time to a festival that prides itself on its timeless taste. Tops came off and mic stands became accessories as they gave their all through a charged set that touched on highlights ‘The Lick’ and ‘One Rizla’ from debut album Songs of Praise, as well as some equally savvy and spiteful brand new material.The crowd lapped up every minute of a set that had none of the refinement, restraint or mystery provided by the rest of the day’s bill – one that included the relatively low key Grizzly Bear, Brian Jonestown Massacre, and The Limiñanas. By the time the band had finished, even the crowd had broken a sweat for the first time today.For their part, The Limiñanas turned their lo-fi recordings into an outstanding rich and layered performance, with a line-up of guest musicians joining founding members Lionel and Marie to open the main stage. It was the perfect smokey soundtrack to see off the last of the sunshine.But the surprise of the night for visitors was the reception for French legend Étienne Daho, well known to the local crowd thanks to a massive pop career spanning more than 30 years. All the 20-somethings on the front row swapped places with their parents to watch Étienne channeling Depeche Mode, backed by a buff band, dry ice and futuristic mood lighting. Finally, Chilean band Föllakzoid closed up, churning out dark and chugging Krautrock until 4am for all those still standing.La Route du Rock continues today. Check their website here for details.
For Sinatra it was New York. But the city that inspired Jain to sing is Abu Dhabi. The French pop sensation tells us about her memories of life in the Emirates
Sometimes a city gets under the skin.
So it was for Jeanne Galice, a French teenager in her final year of high school at the Abu Dhabi Lycee. Eight years on, Jeanne is Jain, an exciting young talent demonstrating that French pop and rock can travel after all.
And in the most striking song of the follow-up to a successful debut album, Jain pays tribute to a city that gave her both pleasure and inspiration.
She already knew Dubai from her childhood. But Abu Dhabi left a special mark on a girl already convinced, for all her sensible plans to study art, that her future lay in music.
‘A real cultural shock’
From the opening sequence of elegant, lilting Arabian strings, Abu Dhabi is a compelling piece of music dedicated to an influential period of Jain’s life.
It is not the first song to have been named after the capital. But while a 1979 offering from the New Zealand band Split Enz is rightly forgotten, Jain’s will be remembered. The opening verse sets the scene: Pushing the limits of music from the inside / Your Arabic sound is driving my mind / The first time I walked down into your town / A new kind of music had blessed my soul.
“Going to the UAE for the first time was a real cultural shock,” Jain, 26, tells The National from Paris, her home since returning to France. “Everything was different. People didn’t speak my language, it was all new, a huge change. But I loved it. I was young. It was about fun. Then we moved to Abu Dhabi after living in the Democratic Republic of Congo. I knew it would be the last time I’d be living outside France so I wanted to enjoy it the best I could,” she says. “The song is my homage to the city.”
Popular music history is dotted with classics extolling the virtues of big cities. Tony Bennett crooned about the “loveliness of Paris” and the historic glories of Rome before pledging his heart to San Francisco. For Frank Sinatra, it was New York or Chicago. Others have sung in praise of Copenhagen, London and Rio de Janeiro. With the West a popular geographical setting, could Jain’s song redress the balance by putting Abu Dhabi on the international musical map? It deserves to.
Two extremities
Her second album, Souldier, released on August 24, is the much-anticipated sequel to a superb 2015 debut, Zanaka, meaning “child” in Malagasy, the language of her maternal grandmother.
Packed with mesmerising rhythms, inventive melodies and gentle rap, the album sold heavily in France and won a clutch of awards. Matching its standard was a tall order, but Souldier rises to the challenge. Fans will not only love the enchanting song about Abu Dhabi, but the other compelling tracks, too.
Jain was born in the south western French city of Toulouse. Music was important in her household. The youngest of three sisters, she grew up to the sounds of The Beatles, Otis Redding and – most enduringly – the South African singer and anti-apartheid activist Miriam Makeba, eulogised in a stand-out song on Zanaka.
Her father worked in the oil industry and she was nine when he took the family to Dubai. After four years came an eye-opening change – a move to the Congo. Jain was spellbound by the contrast. “Two extremities – Dubai, so rich with lots of business, the Congo so poor – and there seemed nothing in common. But it helped me broaden myself, to learn different values. I could not have asked for a better childhood.”
Indeed, Jain’s serious musical interest dates from her time in Africa. Adolescent insecurity played its part. “Outside of France, knowing I was French but not really feeling French, it was sometimes difficult. Music was my refuge and I stopped asking myself these questions when I started writing songs.”
In Dubai, she had tried – not without a struggle – to learn basic Arabic. She found it easier to master Arabian percussion techniques. In the Congo, she found she could write her own songs; Come, another hit from Zanaka, was composed there when she was 16. Surfing the internet, she stumbled on a reference to Jainism, the ancient Indian religion. It gave her a professional identity and an adopted principle: “don’t be sad to lose; don’t be proud to win.”
Expressing herself musically
Following up an outstanding debut album is notoriously tricky. But Jain has made good choices. Alright initially seems an unremarkable dance tune, but is lifted by bursts of her trademark rap. The title track is instantly likeable; others grow on the ear.
Jain drew on oriental and African influences and says she is both proud of the album and encouraged by the audience’s responses to the new work. There is also the chance of a breakthrough in the English-speaking markets that her music, in part, is clearly aimed at. But Jain remains resolutely French, despite – so far – singing exclusively in English. “I am French,” she says. “I was born here, I live here and France is my cultural identity. I sing in English because it is the language of pop and rock. Friends who speak English but not French can understand and it is how I express myself musically.”
Hers is a distinctive voice. Some listeners detect French, African and American English intonations. “There is no accent,” she protests. “It’s just me.”
Making music to make people happy
And no one, she says, should read too much into the album’s title. Souldier is an obsolete form for soldier but reflects no high-minded combat.
“When I started making music, I wanted to enjoy it and make others enjoy it,” she says. “But it’s just music. I am not saving the world.
“I’m not trying to create utopia, just a place where anyone can feel special. The last few years have been so sad around the world and I just want to make music to make people feel happy.”
In Abu Dhabi’s pulsating refrain, Jain sings “move back there, so I could move on”, evoking the musical and educational significance of that part of her life.
The magnet has not lost its power. “Abu Dhabi was a great experience,” she says. “I loved the Corniche, watching the sun go down on the ocean. I really want to go back.”
Nina White, a dancer and the co-founder of Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse in Milford, New Jersey, looked quite chic last June, in her petite robe noire as she waited nervously for the results of the first annual Farm Cheese Awards in Lyon, France. After all, Lyon had been dubbed the world capital of gastronomy back in 1935, and cheese is such an integral part of the French identity that Charles de Gaulle joked in 1962, “How can one govern a country that boasts 258 different cheeses?” [ . . . ]
There’s so much to fall in love with in Paris: the history, the architecture, and of course, the cuisine. The 13 Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners below enhance the magic of French dining with stellar wine programs that deliver experiences to match the grandeur of the city. From a family-owned bistro to high-end hotel eateries, these wine restaurants shine bright in the city of lights.
Epicure
Epicure is housed in the opulent Le Bristol Paris hotel, which first opened in 1925.
EPICURE A fine-dining staple in a longstanding hotel Le Bristol Paris, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (33) 1-53-43-43-40 www.lebristolparis.com Open for lunch and dinner, daily
Grand Award Wine list selections 3,000 Inventory 95,000 Wine strengths Head sommelier Bernard Neveu manages the wine list, which is entirely French except for a few pages of international labels. Burgundy is the strongest region, with nearly 200 grand cru reds alone. Additional highlights include Champagne, Bordeaux and the Rhône. Above and beyond The team takes extra steps to ensure the best possible wine experience at Epicure. Each of the hotel’s dining outlets has its own cellar to avoid disturbing the wines with excess movement, and every selection on Epicure’s list is sourced from Neveau’s personal connections with winemakers. Cuisine Chef Eric Frechon puts a modern spin on dishes firmly grounded in French cuisine, stuffing macaroni with black truffle, artichoke and foie gras, and serving lemon-thyme langoustines with an onion-mango condiment. Noteworthy neighbors Le Bristol shares the block with the Elysée Palace, the official home of French presidents since 1848, as well as other cultural landmarks like Boutique Pierre Cardin and Christian Lacroix.
Le Taillevent
At Le Taillevent, a seasonal menu complements a world-class collection of French wines.
LE TAILLEVENT A Parisian institution since 1946 15 Rue Lamennais (33) 1-44-95-15-01 www.taillevent.com Open for lunch and dinner, Monday to Friday
Grand Award Wine list selections 2,300 Inventory 300,000 Going strong André Vrinat opened the restaurant in 1946, and his family maintained ownership until the Gardinier family purchased it in 2011. Seventy-two years after opening, Le Taillevent remains at the top of its food and wine game. It has maintained a Restaurant Award since 1984, longer than any other winner in Paris. Wine strengths Antoine Pétrus is the general manager and wine director of the overwhelmingly French cellar. The Bordeaux and Burgundy sections are exceptional, with 12 vintages of Château Latour and more than two dozen labels from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Picks in Champagne, the Rhône, the Loire and Alsace are also outstanding. Cuisine Chef Alain Solivérès serves seasonal French dishes with creative touches, like tomato jelly with lobster, and garlic flowers atop turbot cooked in butter. Occasionally, Solivérès will create a special tasting menu, like a recent one with a focus on black truffles. Restaurant Award–winning sibling Le Taillevent’s sister restaurant, Les 110 de Taillevent in London, holds a Best of Award of Excellence for its 1,300-label wine list and 110 wines by the glass. Continue reading “Fantastique Wine Restaurants in Paris”→