By Poppy Pearce

The very microbes that give some French cheeses their unmistakable flavours and textures are under threat, potentially jeopardising not only France’s food culture but also its economy. 

Microbes: the unsung heroes of French cheese

At the heart of traditional cheese-making lies an ecosystem of bacteria and fungi, crucial in shaping everything from Brie’s creamy texture to Camembert’s pungent aroma. However, a recent warning from France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) suggests that the genetic diversity of these microbes is shrinking at an alarming rate. 

In particular, strains of Penicillium camemberti—the fungus responsible for that distinctive white rind—are now worryingly uniform, making them more vulnerable to disease and environmental changes. Similarly, Penicillium roqueforti, used in blue cheeses like Roquefort, is facing a decline in genetic variation.  

Jeanne Ropars, a researcher at the Ecology, Systematics and Evolution laboratory in Gif-sur-Yvette, said: “To date, only four populations of the fungus species P. roqueforti have been known in the world.” (CNRS The Newspaper)  

Such a lack of diversity increases the risk of these essential fungi being wiped out by new pathogens or shifts in climate 

A culinary and economic crisis

The loss of Brie and Camembert would be more than just a gastronomic tragedy—it would be a financial disaster. France exported nearly €3.8 billion worth of cheese in 2022, with Camembert and Brie among the biggest contributors. From Michelin-starred restaurants to the humble boulangerie, these cheeses are fundamental to French cuisine. 

For many visitors, tasting authentic Brie in a Parisian café or slicing into a gooey Camembert during a countryside picnic is a rite of passage. Cheese tourism is a major industry, drawing food lovers from around the world. Imagine a future where a French picnic lacks its signature cheese—or worse, where a baguette has lost its best friend. 

Can science save French cheese?

The good news? Researchers are now racing to protect these microbes before it’s too late. Some scientists are exploring ways to reintroduce genetic diversity into the fungi populations through selective breeding or by searching for lost strains in traditional farmsteads. Others suggest that small-scale producers, who still use raw milk and traditional methods, may hold the key to preserving these vital organisms. 

A call to arms (and forks)

Protecting French cheese isn’t just a job for scientists. Consumers can also play a role by supporting artisanal producers who prioritise microbial diversity over mass production. Opting for traditional, raw-milk cheeses rather than industrially mass-produced versions could help sustain the biodiversity that has made French cheese world-famous. 

The future of Brie and Camembert isn’t set in stone. But one thing is certain: if we want to keep enjoying the world’s best cheese, it’s time to act. Because a world without fromage? Is that really a world worth living in?!