At the Existentialist Café: Freedom, Being and Apricot Cocktails

 

Reviewed by Roger Lewis | Saturday February 20 2016

One thing you can say about the British, we don’t have much patience with abstractions and causes. We are too practical. Virginia Woolf was a rarefied creature, God knows, but her last diary entry, before she walked into the River Ouse, was about what she and Leonard were going to have for tea — haddock and sausage meat.

Things are very different over on the Continent, where hard facts are shaken off for massive amounts of airy-fairyness — or what Sarah Bakewell, in her enjoyable and authoritative group biography of the existentialist movement — calls “a dangerous, irrationalist mysticism”. Eavesdrop on Simone de Beauvoir (1908-86) and Jean-Paul Sartre (1905-80), for example, in the cigarette smoke of a Montparnasse or Left Bank café, and should they have been talking about, say, coffee or cocktails, discussion might typically spiral away up into the clouds to be about the iniquities of international trade in beans or fruit, followed by a stream of elegant associations about colour and fragrance.

That’s to say, professional European philosophers like to go from the specific to the general, and then on to the arcane and the metaphysical. Sartre and de Beauvoir, for example, adored the student riots in Paris in 1968. The barricades “demanded nothing and everything”. What on earth is that supposed to mean? Another profound statement bandied about in this period was equally as vacuous, if such a thing is possible: “All consciousness is consciousness of something.” Perhaps you needed to be on drugs?

Bakewell came across these existentialists as a student in Essex. “They asked big questions about what it means to live an authentic, fully human life” — to which I would respond: what do you mean by big, what do you mean by a question, what do you mean by authentic, and what do you mean by full? Because to me, existentialism, “a philosophy of expectation, tiredness, apprehensiveness, excitement”, is incredibly adolescent and egotistical. In their Parisian cafés, Sartre and his colleagues thought it clever to pick quarrels, make difficulties, produce books that were “almost entirely unreadable”, and cleave to the notion that “for one who exists his existing is the supreme interest”.

Kierkegaard said that (does it lose something in translation? His name means “churchyard” by the way), and the existentialists also borrowed from “the anguished novelists of the 19th century” — by which I assume Bakewell specifically means the anguished, histrionic characters in 19th-century novels: Heathcliff, Raskolnikov, Alec D’Urberville.

Sounding off like mad, Sartre aped such figures and exuded an “air of intellectual energy and confidence”, says Bakewell, which made people overlook the fact he was a one-eyed midget who still lived with his doting mother. The “brilliance of his mind” got the girls into bed — and I do wonder if the point and purpose of being a French philosopher was a pretext for lots of sex. Bakewell almost implies as much: “Olga was married to Sartre’s former student Jacques-Laurent Bost, Sartre was sleeping with Bost’s sister Wanda, and de Beauvoir had retired to conduct a long, secret affair with Bost.” Bakewell describes Sartre as “a sex addict who didn’t even enjoy sex”.

People overlooked the fact that Sartre was a one-eyed midget living with his mother

When she got wind of this, needless to say, Iris Murdoch, who in 1953 wrote the first full-length book on Sartre, was on the cross-Channel ferry at the double, keen to experience “free love with bisexual abandon” with which to pad out her novels. Despite all the sexual abandon they were not a harmonious band: “Sartre fell out with Albert Camus, Camus fell out with Merleau-Ponty, Merleau-Ponty fell out with Sartre, and the Hungarian intellectual Arthur Koestler fell out with everyone and punched Camus in the street.”

There was also a sinister and political dimension to existentialism. Issues of “what it meant to be free” struck a chord after the Nazi occupation, when, as Bakewell says, “many had good reason to forget the recent past and its moral compromises and horrors”.

If people had been cowards and collaborators — so what? “You choose who you will be,” said the existentialists. A man has every right to “constantly invent his own path”. It is interesting how antisocial this stance is, and as a fine upstanding example of such a citizen, Sartre fell head-over-heels for Jean Genet, a thief, vagrant and male prostitute. “Freedom alone can account for a person in his totality,” wrote Sartre in his 700-page encomium, Saint Genet, which attempted to justify and ennoble criminality.

Sartre also thought that “to see things fully . . . to gain freedom” his philosophy should encompass drugs, though when he took mescaline he had nightmare visions of snakes, fish, toads, vultures and beetles. For months he thought he was being followed down the street by a lobster. Maybe it was only Murdoch in an orange coat?

If existentialism appealed to the craven, the philosophy of “new beginnings” also made sense to Nazi sympathisers, when they were reinventing Germany after the First World War. Martin Heidegger, author of the influential Being and Time (1927), who in April 1933, as the rector of Freiburg University, sacked colleagues whom the regime identified as Jews, said that people must combat “the disappearing powers of authentic humanity” and rise above “a narrow-minded attachment to possessions and familiar scenes” by devoting themselves instead to the overpowering destiny of the Fatherland.

Violence was simply going to be a way of “being decisive and resolute, in carrying through the demands history was making upon Germany”. Heidegger lived until 1976, unapologetic and claiming to have been misunderstood. However, as Bakewell says, what his work boiled down to was “a call to Nazi obedience”. Serves him right if he is remembered today chiefly as a rhyme in a Monty Python song about “Heidegger, Heidegger, was a boozy beggar . . .”

Sartre, in his turn, fell for communism, believing that it was a creed for “the alienated, downtrodden, thwarted and excluded”. Anything that was against bourgeois privilege, he was for — though Sartre was pretty bourgeois himself, his late father being an officer in the navy. Indeed, you feel with these characters that, for all their pontificating, what they are fighting against are their personal middle-class backgrounds, the decorum and respectability. De Beauvoir, for instance, in The Second Sex (1949), was full of complaints about “the limits of her existence”. Neither she nor Sartre believed in marriage, “with its strict gender roles, its hushed-up infidelities and its dedication to the accumulation of property and children”. I myself have been married for 34 years and little of this has yet come my way.

Existentialism didn’t catch on in England, except briefly in 1956 with the publication of Colin Wilson’s The Outsider about the alienated strangers in literature. As Bakewell says: “It helped that Wilson himself was a publicist’s dream. Not yet twenty-five years old, he looked gorgeous, with abundant hair falling over one brow, a firm jaw, pouting lips and a chunky existentialist turtleneck.”

We have regarded it as an undergraduate fad that is to be swiftly grown out of. If we see life as futile, we’ll have a good laugh about it. If we are told we are held down by constraints — well, tradition, manners, taste, decorum, old habits may well be bourgeois niceties but they do count for something and they help hold back the chaos. The existentialist (actually surrealist) notion that “anxiety is the dizziness of freedom”: keep that for your Left Bank pretentiousness, where the golden rule, as I see it, was that no one knew quite what they were talking about.

Source: At the Existentialist Café: Freedom, Being and Apricot Cocktails by Sarah Bakewell

Zoé Basha : A confident debut of a deft new voice in folk

Bookended with canonical traditional songs and sung in eerily bright a cappellas, Gamble is a confident, self-produced debut by an exciting new voice. This is Zoé Basha, a Dublin-based French-American singer and guitarist whose folk music swims deftly around country, jazz, French chanson and the blues.

Zoé Basha: Gamble

This is a nourishing, impressive 11-song set, with Basha’s voice swooping high and low like the Appalachian mountain music she loves. It begins boldly with Love Is Teasin’, first recorded by Appalachian singer Jean Ritchie and covered by Shirley Collins on her 1954 debut. Basha’s precise enunciation nails her protagonist’s wearisome experience of love, but a friskiness also lurks at the ends of her phrases, her highest notes tremulous with heat. She also masters playfulness on Sweet Papa Hurry Home (a cover of Jack Neville and Jimmie Rodgers’s 1932 country song, Sweet Mama Hurry Home, which shows how naturally the genre’s roots mixed with jazz), sweet suggestiveness on Come Find Me Lonesome, an original tailor-made for a blues club: “Cold is creeping up my spine in the night-time.”

 

She’s also a nifty collaborator. In her version of the ballad Three Little Babes (with nyckelharpa player Aina Tulier and singer Anna Mieke, with whom she sings in three-part-harmony group Rufous Nightjar), the tale of death and dreams bristles with hunger of horror. But she also writes great originals full of texture and feeling. The best are Dublin Street Corners, a great patchwork of failed dreams in a booze-soaked city (“I’m the one you lie next to in bed / When you’re too tired to try, or so’s you said”) and the chanson-flavoured Traveling Shoes, full of the nonchalant ruminating of a fly-by-night lover. “I can’t leave my heart trailing behind just to greet you in the morning,” Basha sings, as you try to hold tight to these fabulous songs

Source: Zoé Basha: Gamble review – confident debut of a deft new voice in folk | Folk music | The Guardian

No Whey! Is The Future of French Cheese at Risk?

Could Camembert and Brie disappear? Scientists warn that France’s rich culinary heritage is at risk.

By Poppy Pearce

The very microbes that give some French cheeses their unmistakable flavours and textures are under threat, potentially jeopardising not only France’s food culture but also its economy. 

Microbes: the unsung heroes of French cheese

At the heart of traditional cheese-making lies an ecosystem of bacteria and fungi, crucial in shaping everything from Brie’s creamy texture to Camembert’s pungent aroma. However, a recent warning from France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) suggests that the genetic diversity of these microbes is shrinking at an alarming rate. 

In particular, strains of Penicillium camemberti—the fungus responsible for that distinctive white rind—are now worryingly uniform, making them more vulnerable to disease and environmental changes. Similarly, Penicillium roqueforti, used in blue cheeses like Roquefort, is facing a decline in genetic variation.  

Jeanne Ropars, a researcher at the Ecology, Systematics and Evolution laboratory in Gif-sur-Yvette, said: “To date, only four populations of the fungus species P. roqueforti have been known in the world.” (CNRS The Newspaper)  

Such a lack of diversity increases the risk of these essential fungi being wiped out by new pathogens or shifts in climate 

French cheese is in jeopa-brie… © shutterstock

A culinary and economic crisis

The loss of Brie and Camembert would be more than just a gastronomic tragedy—it would be a financial disaster. France exported nearly €3.8 billion worth of cheese in 2022, with Camembert and Brie among the biggest contributors. From Michelin-starred restaurants to the humble boulangerie, these cheeses are fundamental to French cuisine. 

For many visitors, tasting authentic Brie in a Parisian café or slicing into a gooey Camembert during a countryside picnic is a rite of passage. Cheese tourism is a major industry, drawing food lovers from around the world. Imagine a future where a French picnic lacks its signature cheese—or worse, where a baguette has lost its best friend. 

Can science save French cheese?

The good news? Researchers are now racing to protect these microbes before it’s too late. Some scientists are exploring ways to reintroduce genetic diversity into the fungi populations through selective breeding or by searching for lost strains in traditional farmsteads. Others suggest that small-scale producers, who still use raw milk and traditional methods, may hold the key to preserving these vital organisms. 

Could cheese counters in France change forever? © Nella N / Unsplash

A call to arms (and forks)

Protecting French cheese isn’t just a job for scientists. Consumers can also play a role by supporting artisanal producers who prioritise microbial diversity over mass production. Opting for traditional, raw-milk cheeses rather than industrially mass-produced versions could help sustain the biodiversity that has made French cheese world-famous. 

The future of Brie and Camembert isn’t set in stone. But one thing is certain: if we want to keep enjoying the world’s best cheese, it’s time to act. Because a world without fromage? Is that really a world worth living in?!

Source: No Whey! Is The Future of French Cheese at Risk? – France Today

Étoile review: When the show finally finds its groove, it soars

Étoile takes a while to find its groove—but when it does, it soars

If you experienced a bit of TV déjà vu when you heard about Étoile, Prime Video’s new ballet dramedy from the creators of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel and Gilmore Girls, you’d be forgiven. Amy Sherman-Palladino and husband-partner Daniel Palladino already dipped a pointed toe into the world of tutus and turnouts with their 2012 series Bunheads, which starred theater favorite Sutton Foster and Gilmore great Kelly Bishop and ran on ABC Family for one season.

It certainly looks like the Palladinos haven’t shaken their preoccupation with pliés and pirouettes. (Sherman-Palladino started training in classical ballet when she was just four.) Étoilen (French for “star”) follows the professional dancers and artistic staff of two of the world’s most storied ballet companies (one in New York, the other in Paris). With both institutions struggling to fill theater seats in a post-pandemic and tech-possessed society (“Our dancers have abandoned toe shoes for TikToks,” one character bemoans in an early episode), they’ll need a miracle to get the public caring again about the endangered, and admittedly stuffy, art form.

Or, apparently, they just need a savvy marketing move. Geneviève Lavigne—the interim general director of l’Opera Francais and Le Ballet National, played by the ever-chic French actor/musician Charlotte Gainsbourg—proposes they drum up much-needed attention by having her Parisian dance company swap some of its top talent with that of New York City’s Metropolitan Ballet Theater, which is helmed by executive director and Geneviève’s sometimes paramour Jack McMillan (Maisel star Luke Kirby).

Given that the series is populated entirely by neurotic New Yorkers and fussy French folks, it’s no surprise that the single-year swap does not go over well with either company’s main players, especially when word hits that Jack wants to snatch up France’s superstar principal dancer Cheyenne Toussaint (Lou de Laâge). All that melodrama isn’t completely warranted, TBH; in real life, swapping ballet dancers isn’t an entirely uncommon practice among the discipline’s most elite establishments.

But this is a Palladino property, which means everything is heightened. The dialogue is, as always, quicker than a chaîné turn; the takes are long and lush (with all eight episodes directed by the Emmy-winning duo, whose love of the master shot emphatically endures); and the settings and costuming are unsurprisingly sumptuous, especially in Paris. That’s no disrespect to Lincoln Center’s lovely campus; it’s just that France has had a couple extra thousand years to get all ornate and magnifique. (By the way, Geneviève may meta-mock that “This isn’t Emily In Paris, Jack—you can’t see the Eiffel Tower from everywhere,” but rest assured that all of the picturesque landmarks from that Netflix series are accounted for here as well.)

And disciples of the Gilmore gospel will be charmed by the familiar Stars Hollow faces that frequently drop into rotation: There’s the regal Kelly Bishop as Jack’s moneyed mom, Yanic Truesdale as Geneviève’s right-hand man Raphael, Dakin Matthews as a member of the MBT board, and so on.

The whole transatlantic move is complicated, of course, by interpersonal dynamics. Jack hates who’s funding the campaign, the duplicitous dandy Crispin Shamblee (Simon Callow). Cheyenne refuses to partner with any danseur other than Gael (West Side Story’s David Alvarez), who’s been hiding out on a self-imposed farm “sabbatical.” French-born nepo baby Mishi Duplessis (Taïs Vinolo) struggles with her overbearing stage parents upon her return to the Paris company. And the quirky creative chaos—and, evidently, on-the-spectrum diagnosis—of American choreographer Tobias Bell (Gideon Glick) is lost in translation among the French performers, save for male lead Gabin (Ivan du Pontavice). (‘Shippers, take note.

Using real-deal talents (like the New York City Ballet’s Tiler Peck and the Boston Ballet’s John Lam) adds legitimacy to the dramedy’s frequent dance numbers, which are overseen by choreographer Marguerite Derricks. (Each episode lovingly ends with rehearsal footage of actual ballerinas, too.) However, some of the more dance-focused cast members fail to pop against their fellow actors. For example, the supposed heat in the pas de deux between Alvarez’s Gael and De Laâge’s Cheyenne feels barely simmering. Hell, it’s tough for anyone onscreen to match the passion of the French fireball that is Cheyenne: “You feel everything—that’s why you’re such an asshole,” one character shrewdly sums her up. And both Gainsbourg and Kirby are captivating leads but because their characters, like us, are viewers and not doers—lovers of the art form, certainly, but saddled more with navigating the bureaucracy of ballet rather than creating the beauty of it—that means their respective storylines lack the intensity and urgency of their more kinetic company.

Speaking of lack of urgency, the eight episodes do move slowly. With two companies and cities to get acquainted with, it takes a good half season to really get grooving. However, unlike their one-and-done experience with Bunheads, the Palladinos have the benefit of time here—and money, too. Thanks to an overall deal inked with Amazon MGM Studios back in 2019 (boosted by the success of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel), Étoile was green-lit for two seasons before the curtain could even rise, which means there are plenty more moves to come. Here’s hoping that, story-wise, that adagio speeds up to an allegro in season two.

Source: Étoile review: When the show finally finds its groove, it soars