In the last 20 years in France and around the world, there’s been a pastry revolution – who’s ready for the next 20?
When I was a junior chef in the early seventies, French cuisine was going through a revolution that was referred to as ‘nouvelle cuisine’. At the time it became fashionable for young chefs to dare to create new dishes and to innovate and adapt classic dishes by making them lighter, smaller, easier to digest and more attractive to the eye.
The French pâtissiers, however, took a little longer to revolutionise their gâteaux and patisseries. Until the 1990’s in most French pâtisseries the selection of petits gâteaux was identical. The norm was little cakes made with puff pastry like mille-feuilles, apple turnovers and apple tarts. Other seasonal fruit tarts had a sweet pastry base and were coated in an apricot glaze [ . . . ]