Hot Plates: Sweetbreads at Le Coucou – Zagat

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Restaurateur Steven Starr’s new spot in the 11 Howard Hotel is without a doubt the most interesting thing to happen to French food in New York City in years, thanks to American ex-pat wunderkind Daniel Rose of Spring and La Bourse et La Vie in Paris. Rose, a former philosophy student, brings his thoughtful and curious approach to French food, managing to maintain a classic core, while breathing new life into mainstays. Point in case, the Ris de Veau à l’Estragon: Rose pan-roasts these veal sweetbreads, then pours a tomato-tarragon-cream broth over top ($24)

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